Paris Fashion Week: J. Simone fashion show, 3 things to know about the new collection “Bagnole”

Jude Ferrari is a 24-year-old designer from Paris and the founder of Maison J.Simone. Recently graduated from the famed Central Saint Martins, Miss Ferrari is the latest face of new talent from the school. She describes herself as a a mix between the elegance of a Parisian croissant and the eccentricity of a colorful donut. She definitely makes the absurd chic. When she talk about fashion and luxury, as she mentioned in an interview for “Nylon” : “we see a lot of black, simple pieces, and I always wanted the structured and elegant side – but why not add glitter and humor? I get bored if I don't enjoy dressing myself and others.” And then she added : “I want to make the woman macho – hence the references to cowboys in my collections. I want the woman, she chews tobacco like that in her head, that she feels powerful, that she is not afraid of being seen. I want the person to feel strong like when you have a new playlist in your ears and you're walking down the street. When we talk about elegance, we always think of a doll woman in clothes that show a lot of skin. The less skin there is, the less feminine it is. But for me, you don't necessarily have to show to be feminine and beautiful. Yves Saint Laurent showed it very well by putting a woman in a suit, it was the sexiest on the planet. In fact, it's a bit like this: I want to do Saint Laurent but in J.Simone mode. Absurd-chic, that's really what it is.”
 

J. Simone uses a zero-waste technique thanks to smocks to use up all her stocks, second-hand fabrics, upcycling and vegetable tanning techniques. Zero waste fashion, as the name implies, is the process of designing and making clothing without wasting any fabric. The zero waste design does not conform itself to the grain lines of the conventional pattern making style since designing by drawing can be difficult. In some cases like while using the jigsaw puzzle technique, a designer is required to cut pieces and join them aesthetically, where as in others, working on a design directly without a pattern or using different draping techniques are used. Since zero waste designing of apparel is about minimizing waste, the designing and sourcing process go hand in hand. An understanding of textile and design dimensions prior to work is essential. While the term “zero waste” is a relatively new one within the fashion industry, the concept of zero waste fashion has been around for centuries. Indeed, it
have been used earlier for making garments like Kimonos, Saris, Chiton, and other folk costumes. These traditional clothes make use of the concept of utilization of the whole width of a fabric. Hence contrary to conventional garment manufacturing units, where twenty percent of the fabric is wasted by scraps and the negative spaces created for pattern pieces, zero waste clothes are designed by using technically advanced methods of pattern making, in order to use a fabric from selvedge to selvedge. At present there are many approaches and techniques of zero waste design which include draping, pattern cutting, and knitting. With the advent of slow fashion and rise in the demand for clothing created sustainably and ethically, there are many designers who have ventured into the art of creating garments with minimal waste.

For her first show during the Paris Fashion Week, the designer, sharing her surname with the car brand “Ferrari “, plays with this coincidence and turns the situation into an amusing revenge. Highlighting a delirious and immersive universe, prestigious brands such as Swaroski, or mythical ones, like Crocs, lend themselves to the game as “Bagnole'” Spring/Summer 2023 collection is then an offbeat collection, drawing its inspiration from the Popular culture overflowing with ultra cliche references, where the “bad taste” is trendy. Various inspirations collide then: American Monster Trucks car tuning, Formula 1 racing and its equestrian lexical field. The collection explores infinite combinations of these universes. To wear J.Simone is to enter a world where the absurd becomes chic.